8.9.10

A Last Letter to Mr Lee

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I was sitting in on a rainy and cold fall Sunday trying to catch a movie while eating some ice cream. As I flipped the channels by I slowly realized there was nothing on and my gaze drifted slowly towards my coffee table where some new magazines were resting. Dreaming myself away into editorials and campaigns, I turned a page that suddenly made me stop, look and listen. Yeah, listen to what? Sometimes the greatest melodies are those unheard of to the naked ear. Without even knowing so, you taught me just that. So there I sat with my DANSK Magazine at hand and stared on. They say beauty is in the eye of the beholder but sometimes the words beauty or beautiful are so subjective to a human concept or generalization that forces us to perceive what is appealing and what not. It is exactly when you break out of the mold and start listening to the music from silence that you understand the bigger picture.

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Yet what made your fantasy real is not a single tuned song but rather a complex symphony of sounds and instruments. It is in the 4 to 5 lines on a music scale intercrossing each other on a riveting ocean of your Spring Summer 2010 design, not only defying the the rules of conventionalism but also redefining a woman's body as a natural, almost nymph like temple. It's in the contoured lines of your Fall Winter 2009 design that give us a deeper and more complex view on design paralleling the paradoxes of everyday life. Not everything is the same at plane view as sometimes the side view may reveal a whole new way of thinking. In other words, think the atypical out of a typical situation cause sometimes it's the atypical that add that perfect detail on a basic idea or creation and open up your mind to new portrayals. It's in your overall love for all that shone that not only prove that such an effect is not outdated but rather chic, yet at the same time reflecting on that human need for attention and search for uniqueness. Reptile, Victorian, Plastic. Unique.

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It might sound a bit repetitive to stay here and point out the obvious in design but yet it was necessary to also point out the parallels of a small portion of your work or at least my interpretations of such. They say that your designs created fantasy but in my mind they created life. Fantasy is a mere dream but life is reality. As if defying gravity, your creations created life in avid minds and redefined not only fashion but the way to look at a human body. No longer a board of expression but rather a temple for self-discovery.

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So here I sit again staring at the captivating and pale Julia Nobis @ Elite whose 90s grunge look embodies your definition of appeal. Atypical and intriguing. And as she stands there with her golden blond hair caressing your designs, I realize what a loss the world has had. They call you a designer, I call you a visionary. It took me a few hours to start missing you but it has taken me 7 months to accept what wonders the world will not see due to your passing. Classic, intrepid, contemporary and avant garde. McQueen, Alexander McQueen.

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At last I managed to jot a few words and write this down on a rather atypical way. I guess I just wanted to say that months, hours, and years may go by but your visions and dreams will be carried on by us that miss you without having known you and still get inspired without having your influence present. You are now faceless but still oh so alive.

Rest In Peace and On Alexander McQueen

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Image Source: Scanned by AX80.

6.9.10

From Sidney to L.A.

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L.A. City of dreams, silicone and big money. Of sunny days, poolside mansions and golden statuettes. A place where the terms glamour and luxury take on a whole new dimension as fantasy meets reality in a grand manner. This is the L.A. the world is given to believe and although there is some truth i such a statement, it is also an utter generalization. Almost as if every french man goes around in a black turtle necks and berets carrying around french baguettes. Complete generalization based on popular culture. Who is to define what L.A. is or stands for. Shallow? Criminal? Commercial? Over the top? All subjective really. The true story to be told is a personal one. After all, a city of such numerous hopes and seas of dreams simply cannot be described through the eye of one. So here's an L.A. with no filters seen from the eyes of an individual not really shown on broadcast television or at the least taken seriously. Here's L.A. through Sidney, a girl with a grunge attitude. Grunge L.A. is not a topic often seen as important through a viewer's eye but still of such intriguing nature. No, not referring to Ke$ha's "waking up in the morning feeling like P. Diddy" but rather a feeling of free spirit and defiance. A bulletproof personality and perhaps of equal amount of character as the British punks in London. So bad yet oh so good. That is L.A. grunge.

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As humans, nature has given us an instinct to have a destination no matter if in life or on an everyday basis. It is always about moving on and trying at least to move forward. Often rushing, often stressing and truly not being able to savour every second that passes by. What is the last time you jumped? What is the last time you dressed boldly? What is the last time you did not care? Foam Magazine challenges the reader to rethink that very instance and take it to heart. By portraying a young and vivid girl through an everyday routine and style, Annabel Mehran captures that glimpse into a simpler carefree world. But it is that almost tomboy, defiant attitude brought on by Sidney Williams @ NEXT that pushes that grunge atmosphere out of the photograph and presents a real life proposal.

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A motel stop is just a quick stop on the road that is both refreshing and replenishing. Metaphorically speaking, it also emphasizes on that stop taken on the road of life to unwind and just be. Channeling the "Don't worry, Be happy" attitude from the 90s, Sidney embodies free spirit: youthful, curious and bound for self-discovery. Referring to that same theme there is an obvious 90s influence on the overall styling relating back to that decade of grunge where the biggest trend was not to follow one and to just be. The term grunge has often a negative and perhaps sleazy and dirty connotation to it but in reality, it is a more daring way of expression. And it is such that accounts for the various looks from this decade. Bold prints and accessories, the love of denim and a chance to be out the box; effortless yet classic.

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A trend without a trend. It is indeed a bit odd trying to relate to grunge and describing its' followers as non-conformists unwilling to follow a set trend yet speak of the looks and how to make an outfit "work". The explanation lies within itself as there is no trend to follow because there is no actual intention of making one. It simply relies on the balance of what portrays the individual better and what is most comfortable. No gimmicks. The remarkable use of denim in various shapes and sizes shows a versatility as it is simple to dress up and relax a look. At the same time although classic and simple, it is so easy to personalize into an own creation and thus catering on a creative and expressive personality characteristic to both grunge and LA. It was the age of black shades and bulky socks and Converse shoes portraying a relatable yet tough attitude. It was the age of loud necklaces and quirky accessories relating back to the choice to be different and look different. It was the age where the trend was not to follow one as an outfit was not worn to flaunt but rather to send a message without words. The obvious commercialization of the whole grunge concept might have killed some of that essence in real life so in these times of rapid change and fast pacing life, it is vital to sometimes stop and regroup. No matter if in L.A. or wherever in the world, including grunge into everyday life is not a strange course of action but rather an option into self-discovery. Grunge an outfit, grunge a life.

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Although the term grunge is often associated as a loud statement in music or general life, this editorial presents us with an alternative. Filled with calm dynamic and an overall classic look, what makes these shots pop is the choice of model and what she represents. With her elf-like beauty expressed through her pale skin, long golden hair, crystalizing eyes and perfectly aligned lips, Sidney stands as if she was a grunge muse. Her youthful and curious stance shows an eager personality on a quest to find a meaning or purpose yet it is her attitude that gives her a sense of power on each shot. There is no doubt why she was pointed out by Heidi Slimane as her delicate and crisp features not only show editorial potential but they have a presence. In the long run, it is indeed this same presence that translates on a message to the viewer such as in this case. A simple L.A. set, a detailed wardrobe of classic and simple pieces and an overall simple theme yet with Sidney's presence all the elements come together and not only connect but tell an untold story of free spirit, an alternative L.A. lifestyle and grunge.

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Image by Heidi Slimane for Heidislimane.com

They mention that commercialization and globalization has been the cause for the vanishing of independent ideas and mindsets yet it has also been the exporter of the same mentioned as grunge thoughts have spread on around the globe. Ultimately, it is all up to the individual It is not about making another trend one's own or about living life carelessly. It is rather about finding the essential truth, that relaxed yet confident way of being and that courage to be unique. All in all, location and globalization do not really matter as whether in L.A. or Paris and whether for style or soul, grunge is no overnight sensation because the adoption of the same is an alternative to day by day life built personally over time. And through billboards, magazines or simple photography, the idea of grunge does live on commercially but more importantly, it lives on in people that choose to adopt and believe. It may live on in a neighbor, a teacher at school or a stranger walking by. Perhaps in Sidney or even you.

Image Source: Scanned by AX80.

27.8.10

Dansk Tropic

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Crickets chipping. Thunderstorms roaring. Wild monkeys howling. You've entered the rain forest, a place of extreme beauty and exotic life and details to it all. Blinded by the colors and the shapes of everything around you, you continue on guided by the light above you. You feel the wind crawling through each hair strand, the fresh droplets of water caressing your skin and each leaf as you sway through and on. Suddenly, blinded by light, you stop and it all becomes white. Engulfed by the previous feelings you look for a sign of life or movement. Any sign really. Then it stops. All you can see is a beautiful creature of long hair and pale skin. As you approach and get closer and closer, you feel the wind, the water and the sounds once more although you are almost all alone in a white existence. You see her standing in front of you, some sort of Amazonian creature extending high above and although feeling inferior, you are not frightened but in awe. Delicately and slowly, she moves her arms revealing a series of detailed and simple garments, all adorning her exotic nature. As her hands extend down, she stops and remains there in an almost statuesque way. She opens her eyes and she opens yours. Suddenly, you understand.

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It is curious how a set of pictures can expose so many feelings at once. Indescribable ones that sometimes cannot be explained other than through a short story such as the one above. As humans we are taught to perceive white from black and black from white. We are taught of certainty and overall, the way things should be. Yet life as one knows it is a lot more complex than so. White is not white when seen through a prism, as that beacon of light suddenly becomes an array of all colors known to mankind. Scientifically, this is no more than that but as humans we are also taught to be curious and insightful. What if every individual was given such a prism and taught to see the colors in all that is white? If every human was able to see the beautiful nature of simplicity? Some may see chaos but peace comes to mind a lot quicker. Just as that, Henrik Bülow captivates the viewer's eye by coming with something as simple as light yet so much more insightful at the same time. In a soft array of colors he manages to capture a sense of detail in movement, expression and dynamic and exposing the beauty of white simplicity. Long and exotic Caroline Brasch Nielsen extends through each shot as an almost mystical woman captivating each shot with awareness of her body and incredibly enough, every piece of hair. Although firm eyed and determined, she reveals a whole untold story as each page is turned adding only to that mystic nature created by all other elements. This is indeed a jungle of stories, details and overall feelings. Dansk Magazine presents you a new Danophile way to look at life. Tales of simple and complex beauty. Dansk Tropics.


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When searching online for the word Danophile, few definitions arise yet it is easily decomposed to Dano and Phile. One that loves that of danish nature. This is no language lesson but it is vital to understand the whole meaning of the editorial. It is no coincidence that Danish design is not only portrayed throughout the story but revealed as an example of detailed and versatile design. Spon Diogo and Stine Goya come with simple lines on simple designs. Just as the silhouette of tall trees extend out into the sky, the lines on the Spon Diogo dress caress the body creating a feminine allure without needing any use of cleavage. Similarly, the unpredictability of the jungle's weather acts as a metaphor to the versatility of such a dress as the use of wool-like material only emphasizes its' use at different times on a season. And as fall and winter approach, the use of jackets may sometimes be overrated. Instead, Stine Goya opts into another idea with the use of a cape. Aligned with a simple black line, the cape is not only an illusion into a waterfall as it gently falls down the model but it is also in touch with that feminine caress as it opens up in a way that is revealing to a woman's body yet not sultry. A fair balance between simple and playful.

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As each flower blossoms up into an array of shapes and sizes, Noir And Barbara I Gongini use that delicate touch and make intricate creations in black. Through the use of fragile tulle, the latter named creates a dress filled with asymmetry and detail. The way it falls emphasizes on different parts of a woman's figure than the typical ones. Caressing a woman's body, the dress is a futuristic web that is almost a bit tribal yet again womanly. Meanwhile, Noir as on its design name uses the power of black into a powerful jacket filled with a sense of tropical exotic nature. As the jacket opens up at the hips it not only extends but it ruffles creating an illusion of vivacious curves. The plunging neckline is a romantic addition as it creates an inner silhouette. It is the use of fantasy, attention to detail and femininity that make these designs as complex and beautiful as a wild flower growing against the rough and moist weather of the forest. And metaphorically speaking, such a woman capable of wearing such designs acts as a wild flower thriving in a cement jungle, evolving and becoming more complex as time goes on.

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What sort of womanly jungle paradise could be complete without shoes. It is funny indeed but sometimes beauty is not only that of seen face to face but rather in the most unusual places. Using danish Camilla Skovgaard and swedish Acne, the choice of shoes is the ultimate cherry on top on each shot. The combination of knee-high spats by Noir and the creative design of Camilla Skovgaard works perfectly as it not only reveals a leg's length and elongates the figure but creates a sort of leather fantasy adding a bit of roughness to an otherwise look. Meanwhile, Acne has always been a master of creating shoes balancing that urban nature and futuristic design. In this case, the strap on the wedges creates for that same sense of roughness described above. On the other hand, the fur adorned shoes relate to that tribal sense as they surround each shoe. Yet it is the use of a shortened heel on the back side ála Nina Ricci FW09-10 that make this a best seller. Ingenuity in a shoe. Genius.

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Some people may see it as ironic calling a scandinavian girl for an Amazonian woman but it could not match any more. From her exotic cheekbones to her highly defined lips and extremely long limbs, Caroline Brasch Nielsen @ Elite is the culmination of such a person. That is why with the combination of such wild, voluminous hair, there is such an exotic nature to her. It is indeed captivating to see a statuesque feeling from her from shot to shot and her long legs not only add to that same feeling but create a powerful stance representative of that strong woman surrounded by the wild nature of her city. Models may come and go but rare flowers grow once every so often. Here is one on its way to fully bloom.

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Simplicity is such a subjective term because it simply applies differently to each and every person. A simple life may be filled with thrilling details every minute and it is such that must be treasured. A simple shoot may be seen as such: Pretty girl, pretty clothes and pretty pictures, but it only takes a peek through that spectrum to reveal a whole different world unseen to the naked eye. This time a Dansk Tropic. Next, your own fantasy.

Image Source: Scanned by AX80.


20.8.10

Scream by Herieth Paul

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Remember the 90s when a model was not only a clothes "hanger but was a distinguishable face in the crowd? It's that sexy Cindy Crawford Pepsi commercial or that sassy Tyra Banks walking down the runway for Victoria's Secret. It's the allure of Linda Evangelista on Christian Dior Haute Couture show or an elegant figure and poise from a Christy Turlington on a classically red Valentino show. Such moments last a lifetime and are imprinted in fashion's history.

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Yet once every so often, there comes such a face that has such girly appeal, soft features and just a general glow to her. Herieth Paul intrigues with her unique name, attracts with her soft and glowing skin and piercing stare and it throws it all back with her 90s retro look. It's a throwback to another time. Such is not difficult to observe when taking a look at her digitals. The potential is there yet what indeed is the eye catching part is her versatility. In a series of black and white shots reminiscent of that certain Michael and Janet Jackson Scream video, the African Canadian beauty signed with mother agency Angie's Models and with Women internationally not only radiates but breaks away from that girly appeal and proves her editorial capabilities. Editorially speaking, it is not only about the most outrageous poses but rather about channeling one's individual self into a setting. With futuristic designs and tribal jewelry, Herieth delivers a sense of tribal elegance. African regality if you may.

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Although many may refer to these shots as another ode to Grace Jones, it is much more than that. The appeal of the hair not only gives her an edge but it shows how royal her true look is. Bringing back that effortless Nefertiti looks of centuries ago, Herieth brings her own Tanzanian roots to the picture and her long stance, incredible skin and overall poise is bound to make her a true star in the future. Although quite young and maybe not quite ready for a Victoria's Secret contract or such, there is such a powerful stance to her, screaming and breaking away upwards from here.

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Image Source: Women-Direct.com
 
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