16.2.10

Ninja Chic: Ohne Titel RTW F/W 10-11.


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Everybody was kung fu fighting. Yeah, maybe funny title but it's all the opposite from the beautiful collection Ohne Titel presented a couple of days ago for New York Fashion Week F/W 10-11. It's not always about feather and fur during the colder months. It definitely is not about hiding that sense of liberty and personal style and it definitely is not about hiding yourself from the world. That is the clear message delivered by Flora Gill and Alexa Adams. With a strong palette of outfits ranging from black to green, gray and cream, this collection came with a solid statement of a woman in control. The collection as a whole is rather simplistic as it takes no risks with plunging cleavage or out of the ordinary contour. What it does instead is play with texture and movement. With an inclusion of leather throughout the pieces, each outfit gets a touch of elegance, a modern type of elegance that is. At the same time, there is the use of asymmetry as textures is draped on the cocktail dresses and falls down slightly in an almost silky way. At the same time, the trousers fall similarly creating for a versatile look and not almost liberating one as well. And the sudden emphasis on army green simply leads us to follow that thread of the army chic look. What is most lovable about this collection is the fact that all designs remain their femininity as waistlines are clearly emphasized and legs are catered to as well through otherwise than mentioned before fitted trousers and a set of leggings that elongate the legs with black straps that curve across vertically creating a final elegant touch to the collection. There is indeed a sense of androgynous nature as the power suits do give a sort of a ninja look but again, it's the use of leathered belts and fitted material keep it chic and simple. Ninja chic. I guess we just created a new term just as Ohne Titel surprised us with something delightful and new.

Jacquelyn Jablonski, Iris Strubegger, Kelsey Van Mook, Monika Jagaciak, Frida Gustavsson.

Elsa Sylvan, Patricia Van der Vliet, Heidi Mount, Kamila Filipcikova, Joan Smalls.

Alla Kostromicheva, Marike Le Roux, Lais Ribeiro, Jenny Sinkaberg, Kathrin Thormann.

Constance Jablonski, R'el Dade, Kristy Kaurova, Hanne Gaby Odiele, Antonella Graef.

Karolin Wolter, Liu Wen, Maryna Linchuk, Karmen Pedaru.
Image Source: Style.com

Nastasia Ohl


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Marc Jacobs F/W 10-11: Backstage.

A mixed butterfly and an in demand one as well. From the curls to her long lean body, Nastasia Ohl has proven her amount of talent having laready walked for shows like Chanel Haute Couture F/W 09, walking exclusively for Calvin Klein S/S 10 and recently Marc Jacobs F/W 10-11. There is no doubt in our minds that this modern and more exotic version of goldie locks will make her impression last a lifetime.

Viva Paris
Image Source: TFS & WWD.

9.2.10

Daily Terror


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There's a monster in the closet! No, it's under the bed! Or was it waiting outside the window? As children, we are terrified by that malevolent creature lurking in the dark waiting to make its move. A constant fear that came upon as soon as the lights were switched off and silence took over. Yet we grow up and we find out that there was no monster to be found and that we were safe and sound. Or are we? On a darkly satirical twist, Zoo Magazine presents us with a new way of thinking. Is that monster really gone or is it laying in the bed, driving down the street or walking about everyday. Perhaps that monster lives inside us and comes out from time to time, claiming power and creating fear. A self-evident truth and it's part of all of us. This story is a showcasing of just that. Something always present at some place and time. This is "Daily Terror".


In an odd kind of way, this editorial is incredibly romantic as it acts as an ode to that ominous state of being. Through a simple setting on a simple scenario, the mood is set. Although it floats together romantically, the overall theme is obscure but not in a harsh or frightful way. After all, it's that subtle, almost silent terror that keeps everyone on their toes. Dancian Photography manages to capture a silent vibration. Through each shot, the repressed dark side is watching, plunging upon, staring through and waiting to take over and it's when it does that we acquire a sort of stand-off attitude that creates fear in others. This time through the unique faces ofMeghan Collison, Valerija Kelava both @ NEXT and Darryl Sharp @ D1 Model Management, this stand-off attitude comes to life as each and everyone piece up together a puzzle symbolizing that contained feeling, state of being and state of mind.


The importance of leather is underrated. Some may see it as a biker gang must-have, others as a queer item and some as no more than a trend. The truth is that through ages, leather has been an item of power. No matter social or economic status, nothing bears the sign of control and dominance as leather. It is therefore no surprise that fashion editor Sarah Bachs chose pieces from this material. There is no doubt that leather pants are a trend yet in this story, they are ignored. Going for bolder and rougher chaps from Maison Martin Margiela, a more revealing side is shown as well as a chance to play on textures and play off that military/tribal vibe that has been seen lately on runways for Balenciaga or Balmain to name a few. Yet to call this an all-leather editorial would be an understated as it does not even tell half the story. There is no doubt that Alexander McQueen and Ann Demeulemeester create designs that are not afraid of being different and cross that extra mile. Through desirability and almost raw sensuality, these pieces expose that dark side as it not only plays on one level but several such as flesh and desire. It's indeed a bit comical the way these designs trap the model's attitude and repress the apparent obscure outburst as the leather straps intercross and contour the body.


In a similar and ultimately quite unique choice, harnesses are used to show that raw feeling
discussed earlier. Chains, rings and even a gold skeleton show that certain fragility of the small objects as they seem so delicate yet they show a sense of strength as they bear endurability and endurance. It's symbolic of that strength that is a part of human nature and that tries to keep its own frightful side occult. Or at least camouflaged. It's therefore intriguing that camouflage and an overall military tone were included in the story as strength and fear play such a big role in such a life. There is no doubt that in war, there is an overall sense of daily terror and obscurity yet it's these men and women of bodysuits that have the endurance to go on. Many may seem a military texture and influence on nowadays design as tacky but it's a simple symbol of confidence and self-security. Equally, the editorial bears that sense of pride and strength through the patterns and military accessories as well as a sense of toughness. Yet it's not the only factor in determining power as it is clearly given by the Givenchy dress shown below. It might not be a translation from the army yet it does play on the colors and adds a mystic feeling to the look. The print and texture seems so delicate and fragile yet so full of secrets. A night butterfly deceiving its way through the dark.


Maybe to the plain eye, this is a skinheads guide to life or an exhibit of punk but that's just true to a naked eye. Paying attention to detail is what can go the mile and some more. The use of simple accessories such as golden studs on those plaid men's Givenchy shorts, the Judy Blamepin necklace, the vintage bullet belt or the medals make an outfit that tells a story. A way of expression. No words, no talk, just expression playing on that silent terror idea and doing so well.


Presence, deception and strike. Valerija Kelava, Darryl Sharp and Meghan Collison. Synonymous? Probably not. Still, on this story they all play their role complementing the theme through body expression and ultimately their different yet similar looks. Valerija has such a strong stance that is simply undeniable. Sharp, defined face structure, piercing eyes and that pitch black hair. She doesn't need to say much to show her dominance. This is how she shows presence. Intimidating presence that takes charge and takes her own. Each shot of her invokes such mystery and intrigue that draws the viewer inevitably in and catches on. Then it's too late. On a 180 degree turn is Darryl Sharp. Almost that kid next door that one grew up with. Just a normal guy living a normal life. However, the question imposed here through Darryl is that one that asks, what is normality? Is normality safe? That is indeed the scariest part. That one where the discovery that the same next door kid is not as normal as it seems. It's first hand deception. With an amicable grin and expression, Darryl portrays that masked persona and shows that behind a seemingly simple attitude and stare, a whole other story goes untold.


No matter this, deception and presence are only a warning. An alert of that to come. The worse part of terror is undoubtedly the anticipation. The wait before the predator takes its prey. As a veteran in the fashion world although still not reached the peak of her career, Meghan Collisontakes the role as head predator ready to strike and go in for the kill. There is such a dynamic nature to her from shot to shot as her body is in motion and is on the plunge. Even when not staring through, there is a sense of strength that shines on. A strength and agility that makes her seem as swift as a leopard. That same leopard is owner of elegance that can easily be attributed to Meghan as well. With a sharp and delicate face structure, Meghan has so much poise that even on her still shots, she seems like she is ready to take over. The versatility she possesses is quite unique as there is a regality throughout her shots as well as an intimidating toughness. It is in your face but not rudely. Fearlessly in your face.


Some may say fear is not necessary and it's a waste of time but nobody can expect to master inner or outer strength without being able to control fear. And just like love, respect and joy, fear is an emotion. Everybody has to face their emotions from time to time and really understand what this means. And in some way, Zoo Magazine managed to portray that message through. As mentioned, some may see it as a simple set of shots. Pretty? Maybe. Tough? Perhaps also as well. Yet it's that look into the beyond that helps us understand that whole meaning of human nature and put us back into that state of childhood. Are we really safe?Let that be a question answered another time.

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